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The cheongsam and its creators; Today & Tomorrow
written by Kimberly Tay
To some, it might be just a dress. For others, maybe an old-fashioned attire only good for a costume at a themed event or Chinese New Year. But to designers in Singapore, the cheongsam can be so much more.
Established fashion designer, Peter Kor has been in the business of cheongsam tailoring and designing for more than a decade. “To me, it’s just a sheath dress, just a tight fitted silhouette, it’s just the detailing is a little bit oriental,” he said. “Other than that, don’t even think of it as (having) to be traditional.”
"I wanted it to be fun, I wanted it to be more contemporary but I also want it to be a cheongsam."
Similarly, The Cheongsam Society's founder and designer, Cynthia Ang shares his sentiment.
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She believes that cheongsam designs today should be unique and wearable, incorporating modern elements and making use of colours that are brighter and youthful. She added, "(this is) so the younger generation sees it as something that is fun, and not associated as something that is old, traditional, something that is older Chinese".
Beside Cynthia Ang's cheongsams, she also spends time designing accessories that compliment her cheongsam designs.
Cynthia poses next to one of her dynamically designed cheongsams, with its pattern inspired by the colourful kueh lapis.
Snapshot of Cynthia mid interview, while talking about her art background.
Beside Cynthia Ang's cheongsams, she also spends time designing accessories that compliment her cheongsam designs.
As much as designing the cheongsam according to modern fashion standards is important, maintaining the essence of the garment is principal in their designs.
To Peter Kor, he is very firm about maintaining the Chinese cheongsam silhouette and aesthetic. He holds a strong belief that a cheongsam should look like one, anything that strays from that would be considered an “oriental influenced dress". It was clear to him what he wanted when he started on this path. “I wanted it to be fun, I wanted it to be more contemporary but I also want it to be a Cheongsam.”
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Meanwhile, The Cheongsam Society's brand is anchored with the signature traditional Chinese button, the pankou. This is something that Ang would want to incorporate in every Cheongsam design, as she asserts, “you look at it (and) you’ll know it’s iconic of a cheongsam.”
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According to Kerine Chia, a student from the Diploma in Apparel Design & Merchandising in Temasek Polytechnic, there are details that most people look out for when identifying a cheongsam. “The basic of a cheongsam is the finishing, if the bias tape and frog button is gone then (it) really takes away the essence of the cheongsam.”
3 cups
Blueberries
Pankou Knots
are traditional Chinese knotted buttons, used to fasten the qipao together, from the base of the mandarin collar down the front of the qipao all the way along the right side of the body. They can range from extremely simple straight pankous to very elaborate floral designs
Front
is made from two or three pieces of materials, joined together diagonally at the chest area by a series of pankous. The shape of the front often determines the type of pankou used, and the type of pankou chosen often influences the shape of the front.
Mandarin Collar
is usually made from a single piece of material that wraps around the neck, with the two ends meeting at the center front of the neck.
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盘扣
Cheongsams are very iconic of the Chinese race in multiracial Singapore, it is commonly seen on racial harmony day in schools and elegantly donned by older women during the festive Chinese New Year.
Kor mentioned that the cheongsam is “sort of a must-have outfit”, especially during Chinese New Year. He brought up how it is interesting to see that people “don’t feel awkward” as there is a recognized timing and occasion to wear it, despite the public’s general judgment of cheongsams.
Ang admitted, “in Singapore, people would only buy cheongsams during the Chinese New Year season or when there is a DND (Dinner and Dance) or prom night.”
The cheongsam indeed is a dress for occasions, but will it ever become an everyday piece for the modern-day consumers?
Ang explained that cheongsams have a big potential for growth. “If you are creative, you are daring, you can do a lot of variations in a cheongsam, buttons alone there are more than 20, 30 variations already, fabric alone is endless,” she stated. “In terms of designs, in terms of ideas, I always believe that is it up to the creator.”
The type of material and textures used in a cheongsam can help to update the look of the cheongsam. As Kor stated, “it depends on the taste level of the designer.” He added that traditional prints such as the peony or Chinese calligraphy painting can be very predictable which a designer should never restrict themselves to. “As long as print appeals to me, and it’s fun, and the fabric quality is suitable for this silhouette, (I) can use anything under the sun.” Kor shared.
Kerine Chia mentioned that how a cheongsam could be modernised would depend on how the person dresses it up, and also styling it with modern trends. She said, “instead of wearing heels, they can wear sneakers, because they are very trendy also.”
Peter Kor explained optimistically, that he has noticed more working-class women beginning to see cheongsams as not so traditional and wearing them to work. “It’s one outfit that makes you somehow look proper and you can never be underdressed or overdressed,” Kor stated with conviction.
He added, “(it) also shows your femininity a lot, especially when you walk into a meeting room full of guys in their suits. Can you imagine you’re the only woman in a cheongsam, and fantastic stiletto heels and beautiful accessories, I think you’d probably nail that meeting.” He also asserted that people have to drop the idea of cheongsam being a traditional outfit.
For designers Peter Kor and Cynthia Ang, they do not see cheongsams becoming a mainstream piece of clothing anytime soon, however will always remain iconic and as Kor added, “(it) doesn’t mean that it is not important.”
To these designers, the beauty of cheongsams transcends time, as Ang puts it, “it is an art”, how it evolves “depends on how the creator views it and what the creator can do to it.”
